What's should we be looking at LED lighting product for quality?
* Color Temperature and Color Rendering Index (Quality of light)
Like CFL/Fluorescent light, LED light is not a full
spectrum light (vs incandescent light). Early LED light products usually look
bluish at around 6500K, for its high lumen efficacy number. Recent years there
are more day light white (5500K) and warm white (below 3000K) products which
are more suitable to human visible range.
Color Rendering Index (CRI) is the number in percentage to
measure how good the ability of light to bring out true color of objects,
Incandescent light bulb is highest as 100. Usually you want the number to be
greater than 70 for most applications, professional who works with color would
require 90 or higher CRI.
* Heat Handling (Quality for product life time)
Almost all electronic parts emits some
heat, that is especially true for LED products. Lighting grade LED converts
about less than 33% of energy into light; the rest would become heat. Driver
does better that has only less than 20% of energy become heat. The number is
better than traditional light source such as incandescent, fluorescent or HID.
However, traditional light sources work at much higher temperature above 400F(200C)
or higher; on this end, electronic parts usually won't be able to sustain more
than 250F(120C). That's why LED lighting is more sensitive to heat. Heat can
damage LED, shorten their life span, decrease light output and ruin their CRI. Similar effect applies to driver, too.
Thermo design is big topic in LED
lighting since beginning. It's complicated and no fixed rule for user to exam
products. One general rule is metal conduct heat better than most of other materials;
the other rule is size counts. lots of heat trap in a small space isn't a good
thing.
* Energy efficiency
There are some room of difference
in energy conversion rate among various LED products. Since lumen is measured
as energy, blue light has higher lumen number than other light. LED working
temperature also plays a role, too. Cooler LED does better work to convert
electricity into light. Of course, circuit efficiency made few difference, too.
All these variance doesn't compare
to difference made by basic lamp design. LED by nature is directional light
source, while all other light source is omnidirectional. Use LED to make a omnidirectional
lamp requires mounting LED at different directions. On the other hand, use other light sources to
make a directional lamp, such as ceiling light/Wall light/ shop light, usually
include reflective panel to reflect light to desired direction. But no matter
how it does, there is no match to directional lamp that uses LED. in some
cases, directional LED lamps use only half of energy as fluorescent ones.
Easy LED Lighting quality
Our LED module uses aluminum plate as mounting bracket, which also makes
direct contact with the belly of all LEDs. The aluminum takes heat away from LED and
allow them to work at much cooler temperature.
Our LED kit or lamp uses external driver that has much durable design. It's
water and dust proof and doesn't have to be crumble together LED heat source.
Showing posts with label quality. Show all posts
Showing posts with label quality. Show all posts
Wednesday, March 19, 2014
Saturday, November 30, 2013
How to trouble shoot a LED kit? (and Quick fix)
Every kit we shipped had gone though a 10 hours burn in test, however the kit may still got damaged during shipping or by installer. And these LED chips can be damaged by ESD (Electrical Static Discharge) before they are installed and grounded. ESD can be introduced as easy as one finger touch and a lot depends on what the installer wear (like sweater and shoes). The movement of human body and cloth can generate static charge and it may build up, and we would like to release that charge before we touch LED module. One common practice is to release charge from installer prior to touch sensitive electronic parts. Such as touch grounded environment object with bare hand or body part.
But damage may have been already done, So we need your help to determine where had gone wrong.
First, you should describe what model is your kit and what's the problem. Tell us how many LED modules are linked together. Then we need you to identify the model number of your LED driver, like shown in below picture, the model number is LPC-60-1400.
Then with the wires correct connected and tucked away, we want to do a live test with power turn on.
Our test should avoid any AC part and only perform on our LED module. If you have a voltage meter like multimeter, use it to measure driver output, read the voltage (LPC-60-1400 should output 42V)
But most of us don't have a meter, we can test it one by one by using a metal tool to short the two solder points of the LED module. Be aware, when you short circuit one module, the rest of modules may come up in full brightness, so be prepared for that. When a bad module is short circuits, all good modules will come up in full brightness. A quick fix is to connect the two wires of the bad board and rest of modules will continue to work. That's if you know how to do wire splicing.
Fig: use a metal tool to short circuit a module
These points only has DC power supply to, it's safe to touch with hand..
But damage may have been already done, So we need your help to determine where had gone wrong.
First, you should describe what model is your kit and what's the problem. Tell us how many LED modules are linked together. Then we need you to identify the model number of your LED driver, like shown in below picture, the model number is LPC-60-1400.
Then with the wires correct connected and tucked away, we want to do a live test with power turn on.
Our test should avoid any AC part and only perform on our LED module. If you have a voltage meter like multimeter, use it to measure driver output, read the voltage (LPC-60-1400 should output 42V)
But most of us don't have a meter, we can test it one by one by using a metal tool to short the two solder points of the LED module. Be aware, when you short circuit one module, the rest of modules may come up in full brightness, so be prepared for that. When a bad module is short circuits, all good modules will come up in full brightness. A quick fix is to connect the two wires of the bad board and rest of modules will continue to work. That's if you know how to do wire splicing.
Fig: use a metal tool to short circuit a module
These points only has DC power supply to, it's safe to touch with hand..
Thursday, November 28, 2013
LED kit burn-in process
Have you seen new installed LED street light just went dark after a few day? Have you seen LED traffic light got broken just after a short period of time? Isn't LED lighting suppose to long life? Why do we see so many failure LED around us?
After our study, we find out this is a popular problem among high power LED; less with lower power LED. One of common reason is bonding wire broken.
What's bonding wire? It's a thin wire that connects silicon die and Chip package connector. With high power LED, its chip die can go up and down in a wide temperature range; and due to material can contract and expend at different temperatures, this bonding wire may broke if the die, bonding proxy and connection pad are in an odd arranged position.
Does LED manufacture test their product? Yes, they do, to an extend. their expensive tester machine can make contact to chip connectors without making a solder point. However, they won't occupy expensive tester machine with low price (few dollars) chip for a prolonged time.
So this has to come down to us.
Modules from Easy LED Lighting are basically tested by China manufacture, so they do work. But after we were into this business a while, we found out there are a low percentage of modules would fail after just a few days of usage; otherwise, they would work for a long long time.
Right now, we burn in test our kits products, every kit will gone through a 10 hours burn-in process with on/off sessions control by timer, just to ensure their quality.
After our study, we find out this is a popular problem among high power LED; less with lower power LED. One of common reason is bonding wire broken.
What's bonding wire? It's a thin wire that connects silicon die and Chip package connector. With high power LED, its chip die can go up and down in a wide temperature range; and due to material can contract and expend at different temperatures, this bonding wire may broke if the die, bonding proxy and connection pad are in an odd arranged position.
Does LED manufacture test their product? Yes, they do, to an extend. their expensive tester machine can make contact to chip connectors without making a solder point. However, they won't occupy expensive tester machine with low price (few dollars) chip for a prolonged time.
So this has to come down to us.
Modules from Easy LED Lighting are basically tested by China manufacture, so they do work. But after we were into this business a while, we found out there are a low percentage of modules would fail after just a few days of usage; otherwise, they would work for a long long time.
Right now, we burn in test our kits products, every kit will gone through a 10 hours burn-in process with on/off sessions control by timer, just to ensure their quality.
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